Chronicling each step on our journey through South America, Asia and beyond…

Posts from the “Argentina” Category

The Real Paradise Falls – Iguazu

Posted on April 6, 2012

Heather here. Let’s start with border crossings. We have become experts in them by now, especially after having spent a few days between Puerto Iguazu, Argentina and Foz de Iguaçu, Brazil. We flew from Montevideo to Foz de Iguazu, took a taxi across the border to Puerto Iguazu, had a day and a half there, and then took the bus from Puerto back across the border to Foz, within just two days. All this to save some money on flights and of course we wanted to see both sides of Iguazu Falls, the “cataratas” as the locals call them, so it was just part of the game. Our passports are quickly filling up with stamps! We arrived in the evening to our hostel in…

Buenos Días, Buenos Aires

Posted on March 26, 2012

Heather here. A hop, skip and a jump from Mendoza (we flew this time), and we’ve landed in Buenos Aires; back to the city exactly one month after we touched down here for the first time as we started our South America adventure, on a mere 24-hour layover. This time, however, we’ll stay a while. We gave ourselves a week in BA, which seemed like a fair amount, but in a city that charms like this one does, time slips by quickly and never stops conflicting with the infinite things to do and see. We rented a loft apartment in Palermo, a decision we quickly thanked ourselves for and found it easy to slide into the rhythm of the life of a local –…

Mendoza – Back to City Livin’

Posted on March 21, 2012

Fred here. We departed San Martin de Los Andes at 12:50pm on a bus on a Thursday afternoon and arrived in Mendoza at 9:45am the next day. Brutal. But on the second leg of the ride from Cipoletti we splurged for the better sleeper seats. Pretty close to fully reclining so it wasn’t terrible. The first 3 hours of that second leg we were driving through what was probably the most violent lightning storm I’ve ever seen in my life. The lights were off in the bus so every second lightning illuminated the cabin. Eventually we got through the storm and we awoke to beautiful blue skies, 95 degrees and the first signs of a big city we had seen since our first 24…

Land-o-Lakes

Posted on March 13, 2012

Heather here. Well, here we are contemplating our last stop in Patagonia, and what a beautiful way to say goodbye: a few nights in Bariloche and a couple extra nights with a gracious and generous hostess in San Martin de los Andes. Let’s start with Bariloche. We arrived by plane from El Calafate, not exactly the most economical hour and forty five minute flight ever, seeing as how expensive it is to fly in Argentina, but we thought it a better option than the 2-day bus alternative. Think about the road infrastructure situation if the driving equivalent to a 1:45 flight is 2 days…needless to say it’s a rugged environment. Bariloche is also in a region affected by the Chile volcano that erupted last…

Glaciers Galore

Posted on March 9, 2012

Fred here. After our magic ride in El Chalten, it was time to head down to El Calafate as we had originally planned. It was here that we would base ourselves to explore the southern area of Glaciers National Park. After our short 3 hour bus ride early that morning we arrived at the bus terminal in Calafate. On the map it looked like our hotel should be relatively close. We figured a 10-15 minute walk max. Wrong! The hotel didn’t end up being where we thought it was…not even close. Heather ended up befriending a local woman who walked us a couple blocks down a dirt road and through a construction zone to point us to our hotel which was on a hillside…

Chalten, After All

Posted on March 5, 2012

Heather here. Coming down from the high that was Chalten and Mt. Fitz Roy. Of all the places to be for a mere 36 hours or less, this one takes the cake. We arrived by bus, another long ride, this time from Puerto Natales, Chile, with a short layover in El Calafate. The stretch from El Calafate to Chalten was only a few hours, and what usually is a chill ride, lulling us to sleep with the hum of the motor, was instead an exciting, anticipation-laden journey facing the dramatic silhouette of the Andes to the west with the sun setting behind. Shades of orange, fuchsia and indigo, and the first glimpse of the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre spikes in the sky awed…

Penguins and Beavers and Hares, oh my!

Posted on February 20, 2012

Fred and Heather here, writing from a long bumpy bus ride from Ushuaia to Puerto Natales Chile. We’ve got about 15 hours so we have some time to reflect on our last few days in Ushuaia. Two highlights for us happened in the last couple of days – Tierra del Fuego national park and a visit to Isla Martillo, the penguin nesting ground. Let’s start with TdF… First, as it happens when backpacking and staying in hostels, we made more travel buddies: Laure, a delightful French woman who took a sabbatical from her job at IBM in Amsterdam to travel, and Lukasz, a chipper Polish guy on long holiday from his job in London as an economist covering the US market. We made a…